Kurashiki Day 2

Entrance to Shinto Shrine 

Chipped Glass repaired with gold ( Kintsugi ) 

Appetizers 

Sashimi 

Fatty Tuna Sushi 

Kobe Beef 

Tempura 

Rice and Miso Soup

Being at a Ryokan the operative word is: relax. We slept later than usual (maybe the Jetlag is finally over). After breakfast we headed out to look at ceramics and generally explore the town. Bizen Pottery is from the nearby city of Imbe. Bizen pottery is unglazed and takes it texture and color from the ash of the wood fired kilns. To get to Imbe requires two train rides totaling about 90 minutes. We had been trying to decide if we should go to Imbe for the day or simply shop for Bizen in Kurashiki. We decided it would be more interesting and less hectic to simply explore the city of Kurashiki; it has many fine ceramic stores. The manager of the hotel we are staying at marked the best stores on a map for us.

Because the shops were scattered about it caused us to see even more of the city. Kurashiki itself is ugly and industrial. The central district we are staying in is charming. There are many small lanes, dotted with houses, restaurants or shops. Many of them have small gardens. We finally found a pot we liked, and mentally compared all the others we saw in different stores where we shopped with the pot we liked. We finally went back and purchased it, none of the others compared well to it.

Kurashiki produced a man in the early 20^th century of amazing wealth. His name was Ohara Magosaburo. He toured Europe and prodigiously bought the Old Masters. In addition he bought all kinds of Japanese and Asian art. His son continued the tradition of purchasing art. All of that became the Ohara Museum here in Kurashiki. We weren’t interested in the European Art, but visited the Mingei (folk art collection) that included great works of ceramics, textiles, prints, etc. The museum was basically empty and we wondered from gallery to gallery. We also visited the collection of ancient Chinese artifacts, which included a display of Oracle Bones. Cathy and I had both read a book about Oracle Bones and it was amazing to see actually see them in person.

We went for a late lunch (need I say noodles?). After a little more unsuccessful shopping, I went for a massage. I returned to the hotel and Cathy then joined me in the large soaking tub that we had reserved at the Ryokan. After a short rest it was approaching sake time. One of the things the Japanese do that is very cool is when a nice glass or piece of ceramics is chipped they fill in the chip with gold. This is called: Kintsugi. Something that is damaged becomes even more special by fixing the break or chip. It is a great concept. We have a chipped plate at home and we are going to have it inlayed with gold where the chip is. Kintsugi in Silverlake.

After sake hour, we headed to our 2^nd 10 course Kaiseki dinner at the Ryokan. This one was actually better than the first. The Fatty Tuna Sushi was unbelievable good and the Kobe Beef was so fatty and rich you wonder how the cow ever walked. The entire experience at the Kurashiki Ryokan has been wonderful. We would highly recommend staying here. When you stay at a Ryokan they give you clothes to wear and provide you with dinner. It is a very special place to stay.

Tomorrow morning we leave Kurishiki heading for an island off of Hiroshima. We will be travelling by 3 different trains, 2 different taxis and one ferry. Here is hoping we make all our connections.

Kyoto to Kurashiki

Today's Noodles with Tempura

Kurashki

Our room at the Ryokan

Appetizer Plate

Sashimi

Simmered Dish

Rice with Dried Shrimp and Seaweed

Rice, Miso Soup and Tea

Wow! That was a lot of food and wine!

We met Tom and Scott one final time at breakfast before we went our separate ways. We took a morning Shinkasen (Bullet Train) to the city of Okayama. We transferred to another Shinkasen for 1 stop (a short 10 minute ride) but at almost 200 miles an hour a far distance.  We got off at Shin-Kurashaki and then took a cab ride to central Kurashaki. Kurashaki itself is very industrial and not very charming. Central Kurashaki is a different story. They have preserved its narrow twisting old streets to remain a delightful area. There is a small river stocked with koi running down the middle of the street. The stores are converted storage facilities. There are several museums. We visited the Kurashiki Museum of Folk Art that had a special show of Lacquer ware. I can’t believe it but I am actually beginning to appreciate Lacquer ware. Of course we had noodle soup for lunch.

We are staying at the Kurashiki Ryokan. Our rooms are huge There is an entryway, dining room, 2 bathrooms, huge bedroom. This will be a treat for us. Dinners are served privately in your suite. They give you a yukata robe and jacket to wear in the Ryokan. We walked around Kurasahiki. It will be a great area to discover on foot. There is one charming store or restaurant after another dotting its small twisty streets. We decided we wanted a drink (no surprise) and after searching unsuccessfully for a bar that serves wine, we found a sake bar. The sake was good.

We returned to our Ryokan and undressed for dinner. We had a traditional Kaiseki dinner:10 courses. I don’t know what this is doing for my diet, but the food sure is good. One unusual aspect is you have to grate your own wasabi. The server keeps popping in out of our room, clearing one set of dishes bringing another. We had salted kelp as a condiment. We have never had it before. The manager of the hotel wrote down the name in Kanji, and we will go looking for it tomorrow. It would go great with a grilled steak (which after all of the fish we are eating sound just great). This is a great little town. I wish the internet was better. But maybe bad internet is a blessing in disguise when you are on vacation and are supposed to relax.   

I've Seen Fire and I've Seen Gold

Priest at Fire Ceremony

The Golden Temple, Kyoto

Entryway to Antique Store

Gion, the Geisha area of Kyoto

Wooden soaking tub in our Bathroom

Shrimp Salad

Rice Mixed with Salmon and Roe

Grilled Amadai

We had been to Paris many times and Cathy had never been up to the top of the Eifel Tower. I knew it would always be there. We finally went there and it was worth the wait. In the same way we have been to Kyoto many times and I had never been to Chishaku-in Temple.

It turns out the Temple is a very short walk from Hyatt Hotel we are staying at. This was my chance. The Buddhist service starts at 6am. I set my alarm for 5:30 and rolled out of bed. I promised Cathy a full report. Tom joined me and walked from the hotel towards the Temple Complex. We could hear the gong of the Bell. The main gates were closed and we went to a side entrance. I saw a woman entering the complex ahead of us and decided to simply follow her. It was a good decision, because I never would have found the entrance to the giant hall. Monks were kneeling and just as we walked in the chanting started up. For 30 minutes, seemingly with out taking a breath, they chanted. Their voices reverberated throughout the building. We of course had taken our shoes off, the sun still hadn’t risen and it was cool. I knew it was supposed to be a fire service but all I saw were two candles burning.

There was a small vessel near the center and all of the visitors were invited to kneel and crawl towards it. There was small incense burning in the middle. Each of us crawled towards the vessel then took some small grains from a plate and placed them on the burning incense. Tom noticed the guy in front of him had holes in his sox. I was wondering why am I crawling around like a baby? They call this a fire? Maybe because it is a wooden temple they have to be careful. The service ended and the monks left the temple; a monk spoke to us in Japanese, which of course I didn’t understand. We retrieved our shoes I was ready to go back to the hotel and take a shower. The rest of the people started walking as a group away from the temple. Luckily Tom insisted we follow them. If I were alone I wouldn’t have.

We entered another Temple and there was the fire. The Abbot had his back to us and in front of him was the fire about 5 feet tall. At least the Abbot was warm. The monks were chanting. I think it translates to “turn up the heat”. One other guy was warm, that was the drummer. He had a big stick and a bigger drum and he was pounding the hell out of it. We were in Spielberg territory: Monks, Fire, Chanting, big banging Drum, darkened Temple. A word about Monkwear: These monks had stylish garments. They were made of vivid colors and interesting pleats (though the head Abbot had a monk that arranged his garment so that when he bent over to pray all was correct from our view). I really enjoyed the entire experience and will probably go back tomorrow morning now that I know what to expect. There is a sign saying no pictures, but I subsequently found out it is ok to take a discreet few.

After returning to the hotel and cleaning up, Cathy and I took a long ride to Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Temple. Scott and Tom had been there yesterday, one look at their picture and I was ready to visit it. This is one of the most photographed places in Japan. The temple has real gold on it (much like the Golden Sikh Temple in Amritsar India). It situated on picturesque grounds with a reflecting lake in front of it. It is one of those places that it is impossible to take a bad picture. The Taj Mahal is another fool proof picture. The pond in front of it acts as reflecting mirror. The site is quite old dating back to 1397. Much of older Japanese structures were built of wood, and fires constantly destroyed them and they were subsequently rebuilt. This Zen Temple is no exception. It has been rebuilt many times. There were hoards of people at this very popular spot, but the site could accommodate them all.

We then taxied to the Gion (the Geisha district) and walked around checking out stores. We selected a lunch place and surprise had excellent noodle soup. By the way the soup is working, I am much better and Cathy is not getting worse. Hopefully this is as bad as her cold will be.

From the Ginza we walked to the Antique District. We went into many small shops and only saw one item that truly we liked it was an incense burner from the 1950’s. At 1,500,000 Yen (about $ 15,000 it was out of our league – but it was very nice).

We returned to our hotel and went across the street to The Kyoto National Museum where there was a show of Rimpa. Rimpa is the name for very highly decorative arts that flourished during the Edo Period of Japanese history (1600 – 1868). The lines for the show were enormous and there was no way that we were getting in. Oh well, we will always have The Broad.

We met Tom and Scott for cocktails in the bar at the Hyatt and then went to Kakyu a traditional Kyoto restaurant for a dinner. The food was excellent and the interaction with the chef / owner was a delight. Scott spoke just enough Japanese to communicate with him. I used hand signals to suggest more wine. It was small course after small course of delicious food.

Tomorrow we take two trains to reach the small city of Kirashki, I wonder if they will have internet. We will all find out. It was great to spend a few days with Tom and Scott here in Kyoto. We look forward to seeing them again in LA.

From One Cold to Another

Shopping Opportunity

Its Lunch, must be soup

Bike Parking Lot

Sea Urchin

Appetizers 

Fish inside of Lemon

Kyoto Beef on top of Braiser

Good news the rain is gone! Bad news Cathy is getting my cold. Bummer. We decided to make the day a restful one. We slept later than usual, then after breakfast taxied to the Central District area. Scott and Tom rented bikes and rode along the riverbank to visit Temples.

Cathy and I went to our Temple: Takashimaya (the grandest department store in Kyoto). Department stores in Tokyo are NOT like department stores in the States. They are huge, crowded and high end. They also sell groceries, meats, baked goods, and prepared food. We use Takashimaya as a landmark. Many other interesting shops are in the same general area, it is easy to tell a taxi driver to take us to Takashimaya and then we can walk to wherever we really want to go. Most Japanese do NOT speak English. I have been using Google Translate on my iPhone and it works well.

We first went to Gallery Gallery but they were remodeling. We then went back to Takashimaya looking for gifts, but didn’t find anything appropriate. Cathy was beginning to feel the cold’s onset so we decided to take it easy. Have a cold? Have hot soba for lunch. The Japanese version of Jewish Chicken soup. We taxied back to the hotel after lunch. I decided to buy some Sudafed for us, and asked the concierge where there was a pharmacy. It was a hike away, but I decided to walk to it rather than taxi. At the store Google Translate saved the day. Sudafed isn’t sold in Japan, but they have products with a similar compound. All the labeling however was in Japanese and I had to explain that I wanted something with: pseudoephedrine specifically. Try communicating that by sign language, thank god for Google (or is Google god)?

I then decided rather than walking back to the hotel to take a bus, I asked the people how much was bus fair? They refused to tell me, and said it isn’t that far I should walk and not take the bus because it is healthier. Only in Japan would I be given lifestyle hints. On my walk I passed a bicycle parking lot; I have never seen one in the States. We relaxed and read before preparing for dinner.

We met Tom and Scott in the Bar for happy hour. Later we went to Giro Giro for dinner. Japanese apparently like double names. We sat at a sushi like counter where what I would describe as Hipster chefs created a delicious multi-course dinner. With lots of sake the price was under $ 50.00 per person. It was a real treat.

After returning to the hotel I realized I left my shoulder bag somewhere. I had my wallet and iPhone with me, but I did want my bag. I called the Bar at the hotel it wasn't there, the hotel then called Giro Giro and they had the bag. I jumped in taxi and made the roundtrip to recover my missing bag. I then read late finishing the book I was reading and set my alarm for 5:30am so I could walk to the nearby Temple for the Buddhist Fire Ceremony that starts at 6am daily. 

Rainy Day in Kyoto

Typical Bicyclist in the Rain 

Hiroshi Saito    

Rock Garden at  Ginkakuji Temple

Rain won't stop an iPhone user

The Gates at Honenin

Rock Garden at Korin-In

Moss Garden at Korin-In

Masa and Cathy looking at Ceramics

Tempura

We awoke to a rainy Kyoto morning. The weather report said the rain would clear up and we would probably not have any more rain the rest of our trip. I had developed a cold from the weather, but Scott had some Sudafed like medicine and I decided to take his medicine and ignore the cold.

After breakfast we were met by our Guide: Masa Fujiwara. We had been with Masa before, he is a gentle soul with a deep understanding of Kyoto. We were happy to have his services. The hotel provided us umbrellas. Interestingly inside some of the taxis there are available umbrellas. If you need one you just take one, and the next time you are in a taxi you return an umbrella. It is a very Japanese way. There are a lot of bicyclists in Kyoto (it is fairly flat city) and they ride in the rain with one hand holding up an umbrella the other steering. It is a funny sight to behold.

We started our day with a visit to Hiroshi Saito. He is a textile artist and painter. We spent a lot of time with him. He had an accident falling off a ladder, that compounded with the Earthquake and Tsunami profoundly affected him. It changed the arc of his life and the art he produced. He is very involved in charitable work helping victims of the tragedy.

We then went to Ginkakuji Temple. The rock garden at this Zen temple was started in the 1400’s. It represents waves of water. We walked along a windy path that uses huge stones as steps that circumnavigates the Temple and gives one views of the trees, rock garden and pond. It was treacherous in the rain but we and many others were taking the treck.

Of everything that is special about Japan, I think Scott is most enthralled by its cleanliness. There is no litter anywhere. If there was litter someone would pick it up. You would never see a Japanese person walking down the street eating and throwing away the wrappings. Because there is no litter, you don’t see waste baskets on the street, if there were, they would be empty.

We then went to Honenin Temple. We had been there on an earlier trip and it was a delight to return. The temple is marked by a long approach with a gate at the end that frames the temple. It is perfect way to present the Temple. We then took the famous Philosophers Path to a noodle restaurant we had previously been to Men-o. After the cold, damp morning the hot soup was a tonic.

After lunch we went to Korin-in, another Temple. I immediately recognized it as a Temple we had previously been to. I checked on my iPhone and tomorrow (today as I write this) is the 10 year anniversary of our previous visit. We talked to the abbot, he is a very jolly guy.

We had paid our dues at all of the temples, the sky has cleared it was time to shop! For me the highlight was Aizenkobo, on a previous visit I had purchased a reversible coat, that I wear all the time in Los Angeles. I knew I wanted to get another garment. All of material is dark blue Indigo, and I love it. I found a heavy farmer’s jacket, that I bought. Scott also bought a jacket. We walked to a ceramics store (no purchases) jumped in a taxi and headed back to the hotel. Half way there we decided to continue shopping and directed the taxi to the central shopping area of Kyoto. From there walked the maze of streets to Sou-Sou where Scott bought clothing and shoes.

We finally returned to the hotel, had cocktails at happy hour and proceeded to Tempura Yoshikawa, where we were satiated with tempura, sitting a sushi like bar. We met some interesting people and then retired for tea and dessert in a different room.

We taxied back to the hotel and fell wearily into bed!

Kyoto Day 1

Kanazawa Train Station Courtyard covered in Glass

Wooden tub in our Bathroom

Eel with Matsutake Mushroom Consommé 

 

Flatfish and Sea Urchin with Pumpkin Soup

Cold Pasta with Octopus and Salmon Roe

Curry Rice

We left our hotel in Kanawaza and headed to the train Station. It has an absolutely amazing covered courtyard made up of thousands of pieces of glass. It would obviously keep the people dry as they alighted from the train. It is a fabulous piece of architecture. The train ride to Kyoto took about 2-1/2 hours and when we arrived at Kyoto station the weather was fine.

Our hotel the Hyatt Regency is brand new and is beautiful. It is located directly across from the National Museum and is filled with art. Our room wasn’t ready so we left our luggage and taxied back to Central Kyoto to do some shopping. We had a Chinese lunch at Takashimaya a major department store then walked into the maze of streets behind the store where we found one of my favorite stores: Sou-Sou. After a few hours shopping we took a taxi ride back to the hotel. Our room still wasn’t ready. I raised a fuss and they decided to upgrade us into their best room. It is truly beautiful and all is forgiven. The bathroom has a wooden tub. We have never had one before. Hopefully it is well sanded and doesn’t give splinters.

Scott arrived from Taiwan and we will see him for a few days in Kyoto. He came to the hotel and joined us for cocktails. After drinks we went out to eat at Yonemura, a one star Michelin restaurant. We had discovered on a previously trip. It serves Kaiseki dinners were are composed of 12 courses of food. Most portions are small and very elaborate. It was an delicious dinner. We were stuffed by the end. The restaurant is beautiful, the Japanese use wood in the most artistic way. This restaurant (and our hotel) are great examples of the way wood can be decoratively used.  An auspicious first day in Kyoto.