Friday, November 6, 2015

Kurashiki Day 2

Entrance to Shinto Shrine 
Chipped Glass repaired with gold ( Kintsugi ) 
Appetizers 
Sashimi 
Fatty Tuna Sushi 
Kobe Beef 

Tempura 
Rice and Miso Soup
Being at a Ryokan the operative word is: relax. We slept later than usual (maybe the Jetlag is finally over). After breakfast we headed out to look at ceramics and generally explore the town. Bizen Pottery is from the nearby city of Imbe. Bizen pottery is unglazed and takes it texture and color from the ash of the wood fired kilns. To get to Imbe requires two train rides totaling about 90 minutes. We had been trying to decide if we should go to Imbe for the day or simply shop for Bizen in Kurashiki. We decided it would be more interesting and less hectic to simply explore the city of Kurashiki; it has many fine ceramic stores. The manager of the hotel we are staying at marked the best stores on a map for us.

Because the shops were scattered about it caused us to see even more of the city. Kurashiki itself is ugly and industrial. The central district we are staying in is charming. There are many small lanes, dotted with houses, restaurants or shops. Many of them have small gardens. We finally found a pot we liked, and mentally compared all the others we saw in different stores where we shopped with the pot we liked. We finally went back and purchased it, none of the others compared well to it.

Kurashiki produced a man in the early 20th century of amazing wealth. His name was Ohara Magosaburo. He toured Europe and prodigiously bought the Old Masters. In addition he bought all kinds of Japanese and Asian art. His son continued the tradition of purchasing art. All of that became the Ohara Museum here in Kurashiki. We weren’t interested in the European Art, but visited the Mingei (folk art collection) that included great works of ceramics, textiles, prints, etc. The museum was basically empty and we wondered from gallery to gallery. We also visited the collection of ancient Chinese artifacts, which included a display of Oracle Bones. Cathy and I had both read a book about Oracle Bones and it was amazing to see actually see them in person.

We went for a late lunch (need I say noodles?). After a little more unsuccessful shopping, I went for a massage. I returned to the hotel and Cathy then joined me in the large soaking tub that we had reserved at the Ryokan. After a short rest it was approaching sake time. One of the things the Japanese do that is very cool is when a nice glass or piece of ceramics is chipped they fill in the chip with gold. This is called: Kintsugi. Something that is damaged becomes even more special by fixing the break or chip. It is a great concept. We have a chipped plate at home and we are going to have it inlayed with gold where the chip is. Kintsugi in Silverlake.

After sake hour, we headed to our 2nd 10 course Kaiseki dinner at the Ryokan. This one was actually better than the first. The Fatty Tuna Sushi was unbelievable good and the Kobe Beef was so fatty and rich you wonder how the cow ever walked. The entire experience at the Kurashiki Ryokan has been wonderful. We would highly recommend staying here. When you stay at a Ryokan they give you clothes to wear and provide you with dinner. It is a very special place to stay.

Tomorrow morning we leave Kurishiki heading for an island off of Hiroshima. We will be travelling by 3 different trains, 2 different taxis and one ferry. Here is hoping we make all our connections.



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